One of the most northerly of the Greek islands, Thassos escapes the wild blast of the meltemi wind in July and August. The flip side is hot and sticky weather at the height of the holiday season when insects like wasps can be a problem. But the island has some impressive beaches with the best in the south and east. While some, like Limenaria are unmemorable, others like Paradiso and Alyki are just breathtaking. There are also delightful coves waiting for those prepared to wander off the beaten track. As the package firms move in however, the atmosphere moves out, and holiday beaches like Makryammos and Skala Potamia now are bending to downmarket demands. With no airport, visitor numbers tend to be lower so the island has a good few years left. Enjoy it while you can. THASSOS TOWN, known locally as LIMENAS or LIMIS is the island's main town, though not its main port which lies to the east in the dire resort of Ormos Prinou. Limenas has three faces, the good, the bad and the ugly. Visiting tourists stream off the ferry from mainland Karamouti to the ugliest part - the new harbour. This a vast swathe of concrete and dirt is often lined with lorries bearing the island's main export product of marble as they queue up for the ferry. A few bars and hotels dot the harbour alongside the sort of tavernas that make your heart sink. Sickly illuminated menus in pale yellow neon make dishes look like they once had a bit part in The Exorcist. Most meals at this end of town are served up with greasy chips, canned vegetables and the numbing thump of disco music from neighbouring bars. The bad part is the main town itself which is fast tarting itself up for the growing tourist population. More cafes and trinket shops spring up each year as locals try to cash in on the tourist bonanza. Arriving ferries regularly spout out cars, coaches and the huge marble carrying lorries, turning the town's short and narrow main street into a cauldron of fumes and noise. The good side of Limenas is found in the old and pretty fishing harbour which, despite being swamped by tavernas and cafes, manages to retain a warm, rustic atmosphere. Brightly painted fishing boats bob against the harbour wall while strolling tourists wind their way around a quayside littered with ropes and fishing nets. Most tavernas at this end of town serve decent food in generous proportions. The town also boasts ruins that pop up now and then among shops and houses. Those not fenced off with rusty chain link fencing have almost disappeared and town centre remains are now little more than a children's playground. The main archaeological sites are at the Agora next to the newly built archaeological museum where there are Roman foundations of shops and houses; the amphitheatre above the town which still hosts performances during the summer season and has fabulous views over the bay; and further along the track, well restored city walls and the relatively substantial remains of the Acropolis and temples to Apollo and Athena. The beach was tarted up with lorry loads of sand in 1996. It's pleasant enough for an artificial beach with shallow waters ideal for children. Tamarisk trees line the road which runs behind and serves a row of pleasant tavernas. In the early evening to see dog packs roam the shoreline begging for scraps when they're not copulating and defecating in the sand. On Thursdays hundreds of schoolchildren are ferried over from mainland Kavala on educational trips to the town's archaeological ruins - to the open annoyance of the locals. Sunbathers can find the beach quickly swamped by overexcited and very noisy children..